Which Diamond Shape Is Right for You?
A simple guide to ten popular shapes, how they look on the hand, and how to choose without regret.
The first thing people notice about a diamond is not its grades. It is its shape. It is also where the most confusion starts. Shape is the outline of the stone, such as round, oval or pear. Cut is how well that stone is proportioned and polished, and that is what decides the sparkle. So my advice is simple: choose the shape you love, then protect the cut.
Here are the ten shapes I am asked about most. Tap through them.
Explore the shapes
Shape is not the same as cut
These two words get mixed up constantly, and the difference matters when you compare prices and certificates.
Shape
The outline you see from above: round, oval, pear and so on. This is a matter of taste.
Cut
How well the facets are proportioned and polished. This decides how much light comes back, so how much the stone sparkles.
One more thing to know: many labs, such as GIA, give an overall cut grade only for round diamonds. For other shapes, look at the polish, the symmetry and the proportions on the report, and trust your own eyes when you see the stone.
Which shape suits you?
Answer four quick questions and I'll tell you the two shapes I would show you first.
Shape finder
My checklist before you choose
Ask for the length-to-width ratio
For elongated shapes like oval, pear and marquise, the ratio on the certificate tells you how slim or wide the stone is. Taste varies, so view the stone in person before deciding.
Look for the bow-tie
Oval, pear, marquise and heart shapes can show a darker bow-tie across the centre. A faint one is normal. Check it in daylight and showroom light, and ask to compare two stones.
Protect the points and corners
The tips of a pear, marquise or heart, and the corners of a princess cut, are the most delicate parts. Ask for protective prongs or a bezel setting, especially if you work with your hands.
See it on your own hand
The same shape looks different on different fingers. Try two or three shapes on, and look at them with your hand moving, not only still.
Still check the 4Cs and the certificate
Shape does not replace the basics. Ask for a certificate from a recognised lab such as IGI or GIA, and check the report number against your invoice.
Choose the shape that feels like you.— Hrithik Jain